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Photography in Jasper National Park....by Jim Griggs |
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Favorite Places I have been at this photo thing for a long time. Started with a hand held meter and a rangefinder 35mm camera back in… …can’t really remember when but trust me I have been around. In mid-1999 I stepped off an airplane in Anchorage and completed the cycle, all fifty states. I have not photographed in all of them but a lot. I also admit to living in nine different states. So where is my favorite place to expose film/pixels? In none of them. I took an assignment in the 80’s to cover Canada for some new products and got to choose between Edmonton and an eastern city (not to be named). I took Edmonton and for three years spent as many non-summer weekends as possible in my favorite place in North America – Jasper National Park. I know, I know, Alaska probably offers more untouched wilderness and wild encounters but like most of you I have limited time, limited budget and have to get my wildlife and scenery fix during a one or two week span every year. Yes, Alaska is a big place, expensive and difficult to get to at least to the parts I want to see and photograph. Jasper is relatively easy to get to, easy to get around in and abounds in magnificent scenery and wildlife. Now that I have let everyone in on my favorite place let me tell you that being there at the right time of year is the MOST important part of the equation.
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| I have
only been to Jasper National Park (henceforth referred to as Jasper) in
the summer, once. I learned my lesson. Being easy to get to, people get
there when the getting is easiest and when the kids are out of school,
summer. For me the park really comes alive starting at the end of
September. "Doesn’t is get cold there, Jim?" YEP, real cold.
The Canadians scoff at our wind chill numbers. When they say 30 below
they mean 30 BELOW (Celsius). No wind chill numbers here. I have to
admit to shooting at temperatures approaching 55 below in Jasper on
several occasions. But, I was prepared for it with down pants, down
coat, face mask, loads of batteries and three layers of gloves/mittens.
Back to late September; what to expect? Lows should be about freezing
and highs can be anywhere from freezing to in the 20’s (Celsius) or
60-70 in Fahrenheit. Also plan on precipitation, rain at lower
elevations and snow as you work your way higher.
Where to stay: I have always stayed at either a motel in the town of Jasper, nearby cabin or one of the many approved boarding homes available. Camping is available in the park but there are many campgrounds closed because of the off season. Best to check at the entrance station to find out which are open. Where to photograph: What makes Jasper so great in late September or early October is the abundance of wildlife down low and in the open early in the morning and late in the afternoon. Once the snow starts in earnest at the higher elevations the animals come down low in anticipation of winter conditions. It is not unusual to see elk in the town of Jasper and along the road above Jasper to the north, going up to Pyramid Lake. The areas across the highway from the town of Jasper also harbor lots of elk and deer along with the occasional coyote. Near the east exit from the highway to the town of Jasper, there is a hill that has been the grazing grounds for big horn sheep for years. They are often at the location early in the morning and late in the afternoon. The road to Maligne Lake is a great place to see and photograph big horn sheep and the sharp eye will find a moose or two in the ponds adjacent to the road. The best way to find the moose is to drive slow, let those in hurry by, and watch the sides of the road for movement. There are not that many moose in the park so seeing one is a real treat. Seeing one close enough for decent photos is a blessing. For scenery almost any direction you point a camera is a winner but my all time favorite place is the lake at the base of Mt. Edith Cavell. The road to the trail head is located just off highway 93A. From the parking lot follow the trail up and over the lateral moraine and then drop down to the small lake at the base of Edith. The outlet of the lake is a large gravel/stone terminal moraine. In the spring when the melt is going strong the lake fills because the flow of water out through the rocks is slower than the inflow. In the fall when the inflow slows to a trickle the lake continues to drain. Numerous icebergs can and do get stranded on the shores of the lake making for dramatic wide angle photography. The road to Mt. Edith Cavell is not open in the winter. It usually closes by mid-October. Another favorite place for scenic photos near the town of Jasper is Horseshoe Lake. Located on the Icefields Parkway (highway 93) almost at the town of Jasper, Horseshoe Lake is a beautiful location that is laced with short trails winding all over the peninsula that fits into the horseshoe. Numerous migratory birds can be seen here at the correct times of year. Not to be left out is Athabaska Glacier. Located near the summit of Sunwapta Pass, the glacier is approachable from below via a short trail from the parking lot at the toe of the glacier or you can take a specially designed six-wheel drive bus out onto the glacier for a modest fee. The tours run only until early October. You can also hire a guide to lead you onto the glacier but it is not a good idea to go out there alone and inexperienced. Hidden crevasses can gobble you up. The Icefields Parkway is one of the most spectacular drives in all of North America. Be sure to stop and see Sunwapta Falls and Athabaska Falls, both with easy access (meaning, usually crowded) and the numerous viewpoints along the road. On the hillsides just south of Sunwapta Falls it is not unusual to see numerous big horn sheep and mountain goats. About a mile north of town is a road that turns off of highway 16 to the left, goes under the railroad tracks and meanders for some 16 miles, mostly gravel. I travel this road every trip in hopes of seeing Moose, deer, elk, and bear. An old settlers cabin is located along the road about 10 miles from highway 16 along with interpretive signs about the existence hardships these people endured living in the Canadian wilderness at the turn of the century. It is difficult to find any location in Jasper National Park that is not photogenic. No matter which way you point the camera, the shot is a winner!
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